Buttonhole-sewing machine



Jan. 16, 1923. 1,442,398. 1. GOULDBOURN vET AL.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

FILED MAR. 16, 1920. 2 sHkErs-sHEE1 s.

Jan.16,1923. j 1,442,398. y 1. GOULDBOURN ET AL.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

FILEDMAR. 16. 1920. 2 SHEETS-SHED 2.

Patented `lan. 16, 1923i.

` UITE STES JOSEPH GOULDBOURN AND HARRY HARIDY JACKSON, F LEICLESTER, ENGLAND, ASSGNRS T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CRPORTIOI, GF PTERSN, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

BUTTONHOLE-SEVNG- lilfiCl'NE.

Application filed March 1G, 1920. Serial No. 366,398.

To @ZZ cli/0m t may concern:

Be it known that we, JOSEPH GroULDBoURN and HARRY HARDY JAoKsoN, subjects of the King of Great Britain, of Leicester, resid.

5" ing at Leicester, England, have invented cer- A tain new and useful improvements in Butt'onhole-Sewing Machines; and we do hereby declare the following to be a fulhclear, and

exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines and more particularly to means by which the length of the buttonholes sewn may be varied.

The invention is intended primarily to provide mechanism by which variations in the length of the buttonhole may readily be secured in machines such' as shown and described in Patent No. 1,063,880, June 3, 1913, in which the stitch forming mechanism and work clamp are given a relative movement, both lengthwise and laterally of the buttonhole, and in which the stitch forming mechanism is rotated in sewing about the end or ends of the buttonholes.

In the machine of the above patent the work is moved lengthwise of the buttonhole from cutting to sewing position7 and also during the sewingv by a feed cam having a definite throw, and the sewing mechanism is started and stopped at definite points in the rotation of the cam so that the cam will be in proper time with the cams and mech.-

anisms which move the clamp laterally, and

rotate the stitch forming mechanism in sewing about the eye and bar end of the buttonhole. in embodying the invention in this e machine provision ismade for varying the ratio between the traveling movements of the clamp before and during the sewing while the points in the rotation of the feed cam at which the sewing begins and ends remain the same for all lengths of buttonholes. This variation may be secured by change .in 'the travel given the work clamp by that part of the cam which moves the clamp during the sewing or by change in the travel given the clamp by'that part of the cam which moves the clamp when the sewing mechanism is idle, or by inverse or differential variation of both these travels.

In embodying the invention in a mechanism which may readily be applied to the l 8 for ma line of the above patent the requisite `.ation in the ratio of the travels is preferably secured by the provision of means which, during one part of the travel of the work clamp, supplements, and during another part reduces the travel due to the feed cam. rlhis means may be, and preferably is, in the form of an adjustable turret, or disk, provided with a number of cams, any one of which may be brought, by adjustment or' the disk, into position to'act upon the connections het veen the feed cam and the York clamp.

The features of the invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying dra-wings and the following detailed description of the mechanism illustrated therein. in the drawings Fig. l is a side elevation showing so much of a buttonhole sewing machine as necessary to illustrate the application of the present invention thereto. ig. 2 is a detailed plan view showing the connections between the feed cam and the swinging and sliding frame which carries thevwork clamp. Fic' 3 is a section on line 23 of Fig. 2, and Fig. 4; is a plan of the auxiliary m.

The machine sl'io'wn in the drawings is similar in general construction and mode of operation to the machine shown and described. in the patent above referred to and is provided with sewing mechanism, the upper needle of which indicated at 2, with a work clamp e, with a cutter 6 for cutting the huttonhole slit, with 'mechanism indicated at starting and stopping the sewing mechanism at definite pointsin the rotation of a cam gear which carries the cams for operating' the cutter and for feeding the work clamp lengthwise of the buttonhole. The machine is also provided with cams and connecting mechanism (not shown) for rotating the stitch forming mechanism and for moving the work clamp laterally when sewing about the eve and the bar end of the buttonhole.

in embodying the preferred form of the invention in this machine the slidi'gl and swinging carri le l0 which carries the work clamp 1 d from huttonhoie cutting position i position. and is also fed during the sewing' op ion, by means of a horzontal lever l2 positioned in a recess il in the bed or the machine. e.

`screw 42 to the bed oi the machine.

short arm 16 ot the lever is connected to the sliding trame l0 by a vertical pin 18, which acts as the pivot about which the trame 10 swings during the sewing round the eye and across the end of the buttonhole; The pin 18 passes through a guide-way 20 l'ormed in the bed of the machine and has mounted upon it a block 22 which slides in the said guideway and controls the movement ot the frame 10. At the junction or the short arm v16 0i' the lever and a second longer arm 24 approximately at right-angles to it, is an upstanding cam roll 26 which enters a cam groove 28 formed on the under tace ot the cam-carrying gear wheel which is shown and described `in the above mentioned patent.. This ;,c`am groove is the customary one but is 'displaced angularly about its axis of rotation in' view oit.' thefitact that the cam roll 26 which engages a pin 38 projecting upwardly from the bed oi the machine. The edge of the disk 34 at a point approximately at right angles tothe radial line or' the slot engaging the pin 38l lbears against a vertical tace formed on a bracket e0 lined by a. clamp disk has formed in the centre ot its upper i'ace a conical recess le which is entered by the cone point of a thumb screw t6 which passes through an overhanging arm o'l thebracket 10. rlhe centre ot the thumb screw is slightly nearer to the pin 38 and face than the centre ot' the conical recess 44 when the slot and edge oit' the disk bear against the pin and tace oit the bracket and therefore Vwhen the thumb screw t6 is tightened the cone point draws the disk against the pin and tace and the disk is thereby correctly positioned. A fixed pointer 50 on the bracket and index marks 52 on the upper 'face otl the disk, indicate which cam track is vin engagement with the roll 30.

The'cam tracks 32 in the under tace et' the disk all lead into a central recess 5a in the disk and-if the thumb screw 46 is untastened andthe disk moved until the slot 36 is disengaged from the pin 88 and the cam roll 30 is in the central recess 5e, the disk 34 may be turned and another cam track brought into engagement with the cam roll 80. The disk will then be moved back into engagement with the pin 88 and face and the thumb screw e6 tightened. lf during the feeding movementof the sliding and swinging frame 1G the lever 12 is swung about the centre of thecam roll 26, the feed movement of The `o'lithe eye oi the buttonhole and the needle path, at the timeof 'cutting the buttonhole, maintained constant i'or all lengths ot buttonhole. It may here be pointed out, however, that accordin gto the invention the dis position just re'l'erred Vis not essential in all cases, since it at thetime oiI cutting the but tonhole the position oit the end of the buttonhole slit remote from the eye and nearer the needle path is kept the same for all lengths ot' buttonholes a mechanism similar to that described may be used tov ini'iuence the eil'ect oi the cam groeve 28 only during the sewing.

The cam 28 on the `cam carrying gear wheel, above referred to, is arranged to feed the sliding and swinging trame a suitable distance tor a .medium length buttonhole, and the cam track 32 in the disk 34C engaging the cam. roll '80 at this time will be straight and radial and therefore during the it'eeding movement oit' the frame no swinging movement ot the le Yer 12 will take place and the Feeding movement of the l'rame will be at a uniform rate. The other cam tracksin the disk 84 z :e arranged some either first to accelerate and then retard the feeding movement in accordance with the needs o'f various shorter buttonholes or VErst to retard and then accelerate and to thereby determine the lengthv oi longer lmttonholes.

All the cam tracks 32 in the disk are so ar- Y ranged that the ieed roll 80 is always on the same radial line ot' the disk (seeliligure e) .at the beginning and `end oi the feeding movement and the 'trame will therefore alf,"

ways feed to the same point and return te` means for varying the ratio between the relative travel before, and the relative travel during, the operation of the sewing mechanism to vary the length of buttonhole sewed.

2. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam for causing a relative travel between the sewing mechanism and the work holder, mechanism for starting and stopping the sewing mechanism at Xed points in the rotation of the cam, and means for varying the ratio between the relative travel before and the relative travel during the operation of the sewing mechanism to vary the length of buttonhole sewed.

3. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a buttonhole cutter, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam for moving the holder from cutting to sewing position, and also during the sewing, mechanism for starting and stopping the sewing mechanism at fixed points in the rotation of the feed cam, and means for varying the travel given the work holder during the sewing with relation to the travel given the work holder between cutting and sewing positions.

et. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam for causing a relative travel between the sewing mechanism and the work holder prior to and during the sewing, and an auxiliary means set by the operator in accordance with the length of the buttonhole to be sewed for supplementing the action of the cam during a part of its rotation and reducing its action during another part of its rotation.

5. A buttonhole sewing` machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam, a connection for transmitting motion from the cam to the work holder, and a secondary cam mechanism adapted to be set by the operator for acting on said connection during the action of the feed cam to vary the result of said action in a manner determined by the operator.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, actuator for feeding the work holder, and a turret provided with a plurality of cams and adjustable to establish connection between the actuator and one or another of said cams according` to the character of the buttonhole to be sewed.

7. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a buttonhole cutter, sewing mechanism, a work holder, means for causing a relative travel of the sewing mechanism and holder between cutting and sewing positions and during the sewing, uniformly acting actuating mechanism for said means, and a control device readily interchangeable for another and acting on said means to vary the movement transmitted therefrom to the holder in accordance with the length of buttonhole to be sewed.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam, a lever connected to move with the holder, and engaged by the cam, and a plurality of stationary cams, any one of which may be brought into position to act on the lever and modify the movements transmitted from the feed cam to the holder in accordance with the length of buttonhole to be sewed.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam, a connection for transmitting motion from the cam to the work holder, and a secondary cam for acting on said connection during the action of the feed cam to determine the movement transmitted from the feed cam to the work holder.

l0. A bnttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a buttonhole cutter, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam for causing a relative travel between the sewing mechanism and work holder prior to and during the sewing, a connection between the feed cam and holder, and a secondary cam acting on the connection to determine the ratio between the travel during and prior to the sewing.

l1. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam, a lever connected to move with the holder and engaged by the cam, and a stationary cam, acting on the lever to modify the movements transmitted from the feed cam to the holder.

JOSEPH GOULDBOURN. HARRY HARDY JACKSON. 

